Whilst, mercifully, Sydney is steadily ditching the large, neon lighted bars with bad automatic doors, and following in the steps of the ever stylish Melbournites with the increase of small, chic and elegant wine bars, the same level of sophistication does not appear to have been applied to compiling the wine list.
It is highly vexing when one makes an effort to frequent an elegant wine bar, boasting expertise, only to discover that the quality of the wine barely ranks above the local sporting club – albeit in a more stylish ambiance, without the hideously patterned carpet.
Whilst one does not expect a wine list compiled by a world class Sommelier, neither does one expect wine which causes an adverse facial reaction which can only lead to premature aging - particularly when the prices are often far from modest. Despite the chic venues parading as wine bars, many of the wines served are absolute shockers, notwithstanding the fact that there is an ample supply of good quality Australian and European wines available, at a reasonable price. Whether those compiling the wine lists have a challenged palate, or are understandably intoxicated during the process, is not entirely clear.
Common Wine List Duds and Disappointments:
1. Palate Stripping Whites and poor Chardonnays. Whilst there are good quality, low oak, Chardonnays, and elegant smooth whites, we seem destined to continue drinking whites that were in vogue at a time when a cocktail sausage and Sons and Daughters was the height of sophistication. An inclusion of less harsh, more elegant wines, such as good quality Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio, drier Rieslings, and including more of the ever elusive and stylish Tasmanian whites, may see this problem set to right.
2. Shocker Sparklies. Whilst one appreciates that Moet and Veuve may be slightly out of budget for many, bars may still avoid sparklies that, at first sip (or gulp), are like an explosion of harsh bubbly petroleum, and instead opt for the less expensive and smoother alternatives to champagne, such as a well selected Prosecco, or premium Australian sparkling.
3. Flat, insipid or harsh reds. No amount of food can help these go down! Elegant, smooth and well balanced reds please!
4. Inclusion of Rose’. Generally a dud choice unless one is mildly inebriated and basking in the sunlight in an enchanted winery or villa where even the worst Rose’ is a treat (and may lead one to buy a whole case unaware).
As a final whinge: any good wine list should have a decent accompanying cheese platter that is stylishly presented, with good portions and more than a single ration of bread! You do not need to be a chef to achieve this – even the cheese bar at Coles isn’t half bad – and don’t be shy with the quince, fruit and nuts please!
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